"The low-grade friction from shaving stimulates collagen production and smoothes the skin. That's one of the reasons men typically have far fewer wrinkles than women do," says Kenneth Beer, M.D., a dermatologist based in West Palm Beach, Florida. The key qualifier: low-grade friction. Researchers have found that as little as a quarter of shaving debris can be hair; the remainder is sloughed-off skin cells. A rough cut removes cells that aren't ready for eviction, causing irritation, says Dr. Beer. Your job is to ensure a smooth transaction. Here's how.
Take Your Time
It's always best to shave in the shower or right after you step out—the heat opens your pores and loosens your beard. A 2007 study in the Journal of Materials Science revealed that moistened hairs require 30 percent less blade force to cut than dry ones do. Minutes matter here: Stubble (and the skin beneath it) needs at least 3 to 4 minutes to absorb moisture. Less pressure means less pulling, which can reduce agitation of the hair follicle and create a cleaner cut along the middle of the hair. That translates to fewer ingrown hairs.
Lube Up
A preshave oil does more than just help the blade glide across the skin. The lube helps plump up dead skin cells with moisture, pushing them away from the face and leaving them exposed for cutting. That means smoother skin, fewer ingrown hairs, less razor burn, and a closer shave. A few drops of preshave oil is all it takes. Prepping with a hot washcloth on your face can further prepare your skin and hair.
Brush Your Beard
Stop slapping on shaving cream with your fingers and switch to a shaving brush. Circular motion raises the hairs and exfoliates. "Shaving with a brush is the easiest and fastest way to prepare your skin and facial hair for a close and painless shave," says Danielle Malka, founder of the grooming retailer E Shave. You make lather instantly as you swirl the brush against your face, lifting beard hair off the skin. "Leave the cream on for 30 to 45 seconds and your beard will come off far easier," says Russ Studivant, owner of the Friendly Barber Shop in Carboro, North Carolina.
Work the Angles
For an especially close shave, go with the grain, then lather up again and mow gently against or across your whisker weft.
Close Up Shop
Finish with a hydrating postshave cream to protect pores and provide a more nurturing environment for the rebuilding process beneath. Think of it as greasing the union contractors
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