THE PANT TRAP

 

WEAR PANTS THE RIGHT WAY. WE'LL TELL YOU WHAT LENGTHS YOU SHOULD GO TO AND WHY YOU SHOULD AVOID STUFFING YOUR POCKETS

 

Use Pant Pockets Wisely
Ever since pockets as we know them were invented in the late 1700s, men have been putting way too much stuff in them. "Overloading your pockets breaks the lines of your clothing and ruins a stylish look," says style expert Lloyd Boston, author ofMake Over Your Man."There should be no bulges or anything that looks like a growth on your sides." If you feel you must carry more than pockets can accommodate, opt for a messenger bag. Boston suggests checking Jack Spade's and Coach's stylish options. You can also employ your jacket and chest pockets--but don't overwhelm them, either. Lumpy will never be fashionable.

Avoid Looking Like You're Waiting for a Flood
The wrong pants length could send the message that you haven't yet recovered from the great Mississippi floods of '93. Note: Your pants should "break" (make one little fold) in front, leaving just enough fabric to cover the tops of your shoes. In the back, the hem should fall just above where your heels meet your soles. This keeps your socks hidden while you walk. According to Alan Flusser, author ofDressing the Man,jeans and tuxedo trousers should never have cuffs. Short men only look shorter when sporting cuffs, so keep the depth to 1 5/8 inch for men under 5'10" and 1 3/4 inch for taller men.

Hide a Bubble Butt
I'm glad you assed--I mean asked. Your first priority should be to avoid pants with a high waist. The extra height makes your butt look extra long. Burn any pants that are fitted around your rear or the top of your legs, unless you want to draw more attention to your backside. The most flattering cut is a loose-fitting style with a straight or boot-cut leg. Tapered ankles will make your rear look wider. For cool weather, invest in a three-quarter-length jacket that will slim your silhouette and hide your behind.

Should Flat-front pants Be Creased Down the Middle?
As you bought them, so they should remain.

Where to Wear Your Pants -- Hips or Waist?
The schoolboy trend of low-riding trousers has crept into men's fashion, but not to a boxer-baring extreme. "The standard dress style actually places the bottom of the waistband on the top of the hips, and the more casual style--or party style--is more like around the hips," says James Jurney, owner of the cutting-edge New York City boutique Seize sur Vingt.

Beyond the trends, remember that proper tailoring can be used to accentuate the positive aspects of any man's frame. If you have short legs and a long torso, wear the waistline a little higher. If you have long legs and a short torso, wear it lower.

Make Khakis Work for You
Many of the classics of male style--our much-loved khakis included--have military origins. A British officer, billeted in India during Queen Victoria's reign, had the stain-hiding idea of dyeing white uniforms with a mix of curry powder and coffee. The resulting color, khaki (from the Hindi word for "dusty"), christened these pants, and some Hall of Fame trou were born.

The rules: Khakis are your wardrobe's multitool--in a pinch, they can get you out of nearly any fashion emergency. Impromptu Sunday brunch with her parents? Add a dress shirt and shoes and you're set. Night out at the beach? Leave your flip-flops on and pull on a crisp T-shirt.

But khakis are barging into formal events where they don't belong. They're perfect for a neighborhood cocktail party on the deck, for parent-teacher night, or when you're tieless and wearing a blazer. But they are not for moments when you're trying to impress people who might give you money.

Don't let khakis become your default pants for every occasion just because you don't own anything better. You can wear khakis year-round (stick with darker tones and heavier weights in winter), but they're a summer staple: less restrictive than jeans, infinitely more attractive than shorts.

Pick a moderately priced flat-front pair (pleats are so 2002) that fits low on your hips. Choose boot-cut legs for a more modern look, and a thin plastic tread in the waistband to grip a tucked-in shirt.

How to Buy a Nice Pair of Wool Pants
If you're over 40, the phrase "wool trousers" may give you sweaty-in-church flashbacks. Well, times--and fabrics--change. Wool trousers are now available in every conceivable weave and weight, from heavy flannels to light summer wools that are as cool as Glavine with the bases loaded.

The rules: Buy high-quality wool trousers and pair them with sport coats, blazers, or casual jackets. Wool drapes beautifully and will add an immediate sophistication to your look. Check for these signs of quality, says clothing expert Andy Gilchrist, of askandyaboutclothes.com.

· X-stitching pattern on the buttons, indicating that the pants were hand sewn.

· Lining in the crotch.

· Extra fabric inside the crotch and seat--to allow for alterations.

Don't Wear Cargo Pants if You're Over 35...
Cargo pants are a gender favorite. Wearing them implies that we men might, at any moment, drop the remote and start loading, well, cargo. Hey, somebody's got to get those people food and blankets!

The rules: We resist making age rules about clothing. But cargo pants are best on men under 35 and over 6 feet tall. The pockets shorten your leg line. And never put any actual cargo in those thigh pockets. They're for decoration, not for stashing the rest of that rye bagel.