SUIT YOURSELF

Balthazar Getty is no stranger to costume changes. On the ABC television drama Brothers & Sisters, the actor plays it straight: He's a hardworking son trying to save the family business.

In real life, as the great-grandson of oil magnate J. Paul Getty and a father of four, he's a dedicated parent with a distinguished pedigree and a promising future. And as the beatmaker behind the Los Angeles band Ringside, Getty, 32, is a musical bricklayer, massaging his SP1200 drum machine.

Each role has its own look, but he's found a common thread: "Style shouldn't come at the expense of comfort," says Getty. "If I'm not comfortable, I don't care what I look like."

Prepare for Action

A suit shouldn't feel like a straitjacket, says Howard G. Schutz, Ph.D., of the University of California at Davis, who linked clothing comfort with mental performance in a 2005 study. "Uncomfortable clothes can act like mental handcuffs," says Schutz.

That's a problem for anyone with a muscular torso and a trim waist. The more accommodating the suit coat, the baggier the pants -- and a tailor can take in only so much.

The fix? Buy separates. Try Calvin Klein white label, Banana Republic, or Perry Ellis - -or look overseas, where athletic fits are the norm. European suitmakers such as Dolce & Gabbana and Prada use elastic/nylon blends that allow a suit to move more freely.

Versace Collection suit $1,200, available at Saks Fifth Avenue

Armani Collezioni shirt $215,giorgioarmani.com

Paul Smith Accessories striped tie $135, available at Paul Smith, (646) 613-3060

Ermenegildo Zegna pocket square $70, (888) 880-3462,zegna.com

Push the Envelope

Creative thinkers need cutting-edge threads. But "cool" is a moving target now more than ever. Remember four-button suits? Banded collars? How about wide-knot ties?

"Cultural turn-over is speeding up year after year," says Alex Bentley, Ph.D., a researcher at England's Durham University and the author of a 2007 study on cultural innovation. "Novelty alone is grounds for something to become popular now. Everything from baby names to Top 100 songs to clothing styles has started changing at a faster rate."

Your move? Borrow from the past instead of recklessly chasing the future. Brands such as Penguin Black, Band of Outsiders, and Ben Sherman help you do just that by recasting retro styles in modern fabrics and cuts. The skinny ties, stylish vests, and narrow lapels stand out from boxy contemporary styles, bringing to mind the roguish reign of Rat Packers like Frank Sinatra. His timeless chic isn't likely to flame out soon.